The Destruction of Crockett’s Mill

Thanks to Hurricane Francine, the weather forecast calls for lots of heavy rain over the next two days, increasing our chances of localized flooding. A little over two-hundred years ago, another September flood in Lawrence County helped change American history.

Frontiersman David Crockett settled in Lawrence County shortly after the Chickasaw Cession treaty was signed. As he said in his autobiography, “I went on to a place called Shoal Creek…I became so well-pleased with the country about there, that I resolved to settle in it.”

Crockett developed a reputation among his neighbors for fairness and justice. He was elected first as a magistrate, then as the colonel of the county’s militia. He served as one of the first commissioners of Lawrenceburg, and was elected to the state legislature. As he put it, it was in Lawrence County that he “began to take a rise.”

In the meantime, Crockett had borrowed $3,000 from friends and neighbors. With this money, he built a diversified industry at Crockett Falls on Shoal Creek. His businesses included an undershot gristmill, a gunpowder mill, and a whiskey distillery.

These businesses tapped into three vital needs on the frontier at that time. Settlers brought their bread-corn to Crockett’s mill to be ground into cornmeal. His powder mill produced the gunpowder needed by early settlers to hunt and to protect their homes. And the distillery transformed corn to whiskey, substantially increasing its value.

Crockett was a man on the make, and it is interesting to speculate how his life might have been different if his businesses had been allowed to grow and flourish on Shoal Creek. But, that was not in the cards.

As Crockett put it, “…I met with a very severe misfortune, which I may be pardoned for naming, as it made a great change in my circumstances, and kept me back very much in the world. I had built an extensive grist mill, and powder mill, all connected together, and also a large distillery. They had cost me upwards of three thousand dollars, more than I was worth in the world. The first news that I heard after I got to the Legislature, was, that my mills were–not blown up sky high, as you would guess, by my powder establishment,–but swept away all to smash by a large fresh [flood], that came soon after I left home. I had, of course, to stop my distillery, as my grinding was broken up; and, indeed, I may say, that the misfortune just made a complete mash of me.”

But when, exactly, was this flood? We know that Crockett was present in Murfreesboro at his first session of the legislature on September 17, 1821. By September 29, Crockett was granted a leave of absence to return home after hearing about the flood. Crockett was all but ruined by the flood. His creditors sued, and to satisfy them, he sold his land in Lawrence County and moved to West Tennessee.

He returned to Lawrence County a few times, but the last mention of him in the county’s court records was on April 5, 1822, when he granted power of attorney to Mansil Crisp to settle his remaining debts.

In West Tennessee, Crockett was elected to Congress. His run-ins with President Andrew Jackson while serving in Congress led to his eventual defeat for re-election and a final move to Texas, and to his destiny at the Alamo.

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The Napier Iron Works

Before it was Napier, it was…the McLeish Reservation?

When the Chickasaw nation ceded their lands north of the Tennessee River to the United States in September 1816, there were a few exceptions. One of those exceptions was a square mile of land to include the “settlement and improvements” owned by John McLeish “on the north side of Buffalo creek.”

The McLeish Reservation was made for good reason. John McLeish, an influential member of the Chickasaw tribe, operated a valuable iron forge on the banks of Big Buffalo River in what would become northern Lawrence County and southern Lewis County. McLeish was on the front lines, so to speak, of white encroachment into the territory. An 1813 letter to Chickasaw Agent James Robertson names several of the whites McLeish knew to be living illegally on his land on the Big Buffalo River. Follow this link to read this letter in its entirety: https://tinyurl.com/3czp892w

McLeish eventually sold his square mile, including the forge, and, after brief ownership by some influential people, both land and forge were eventually owned by the Napier family.

The Napiers initially owned around 6,000 acres in the area. They continued the iron mining and smelting operations on the Big Buffalo, and the operation was expanded to include an iron furnace for smelting the brown iron ore extracted from the area’s mines.

William C. Napier owned 62 slaves in 1860, making him one of the largest slaveowners in Lawrence County. His real estate was valued at $12,000 in the 1860 census, and his personal estate is listed as being worth $65,000.

A branch railroad was built from Summertown to Napier in the 1890s. When this railroad was abandoned in the 1930s, it was purchased by the county and became Railroad Bed Pike. The Napier Iron Works land grew to more than 12,000 acres at its pinnacle. Napier once had a post office, commissary, and a segregated school. The company surrendered its charter in 1936, and the furnace was dismantled and the property sold.

Today, the legacy of the Napier Iron Works lives on in the name of the community of Napier, which straddles the line between Lawrence and Lewis Counties.

Photos: Old Jail Museum

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Fred Thompson: Lawrenceburg’s Actor-Politician

On this day in 1942, Lawrence County’s own Fred Thompson was born..

Fred D. Thompson was born in Sheffield, Alabama, but grew up in Lawrenceburg and was a 1960 graduate of Lawrence County High School. Remembered as a class clown by friends, the 6’5″ Thompson was also a gifted athlete.

In his memoir ‘Teaching the Pig to Dance,’ Fred reminisced about many of his teenage misadventures in Lawrenceburg, including one incident when he threw a bottle of water into a window fan at the Blue Ribbon Café, accidentally shattering the window and earning him a lecture from café owner Dudley Brewer.

One of the turning points in Thompson’s life came when his then-father-in-law gave him a copy of Clarence Darrow’s autobiography. As he told the Boston ‘Globe’ in 2007, after reading Darrow’s book, Thompson knew he wanted to be a lawyer.

Fred earned a law degree from Vanderbilt in 1967. He obtained a job as an assistant U.S. Attorney and was introduced to Senator Howard Baker, with whom he formed a close bond. Thompson was Baker’s campaign manager in 1972. Baker, who was the ranking Republican on the Senate Watergate Committee, obtained a position for Thompson as committee counsel.

In his role as committee counsel, Thompson asked one of the most critical questions of the Watergate investigation. During a public hearing on July 16, 1973, Thompson asked White House aide Alexander Butterfield if he “was aware of the installation of any listening devices in the Oval Office of the President.” The question sparked a chain of events which precipitated Nixon’s resignation a year later. Thompson’s 1975 book ‘At That Point in Time’ recounted his experience in the Watergate hearings.

Thompson began an unlikely film career after successfully defending the whistleblower in a political scandal case in Tennessee. The story inspired the book ‘Marie: A True Story’ by Peter Maas. When the book was made into the film ‘Marie’ in 1985, Thompson played himself alongside Sissy Spacek, Jeff Daniels, and Morgan Freeman.

Fred’s film career went on to include parts in ‘Days of Thunder,’ ‘The Hunt for Red October,’ ‘Die Hard 2,’ and a recurring role as district attorney Arthur Branch on the television show ‘Law and Order.’

In 1994, Thompson successfully ran to fill the unexpired senate term of Vice President Al Gore and won again in 1996. He declined to run in 2002 and returned to acting.

On September 5, 2007, Fred announced on ‘The Tonight Show’ that he was running for president. He kicked off his presidential bid with a massive rally on the Square in Lawrenceburg on September 15. Thousands of people packed into the Square to hear Fred’s 25-minute speech, which he closed with, “The things I learned here have never left me, and I want to thank you for that, Lawrenceburg.”

Unfortunately for Fred, his campaign failed to gain traction, and he quit the race in January 2008.

Fred passed away on November 6, 2015 from a recurrence of lymphoma. He is buried in Mimosa Cemetery in Lawrenceburg.

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The Integration of Lawrence County’s Schools

Sixty years ago today, on August 13, 1964, the first African-American students enrolled in Lawrence County High School and Loretto High School and the Lawrence County Schools System was desegregated.

According to Carpenter and Carter’s ‘Our Hometown,’ the transition from segregated to integrated classrooms in our area went relatively smoothly, without the violence that characterized integration in some other areas of the nation.

While segregated schools for black students were available through the eighth grade in Lawrence County prior to integration, Lawrence County’s black students had to catch a bus to Mt. Pleasant–a roughly 50-mile round-trip each day–if they wanted to attend high school prior to 1964.

In a post we did about this subject ten years ago, some of our readers shared their memories of those first days of racial integration.

Brenda Wright McDonald and Carolyn Pulley both remembered attending an assembly in the LCHS gym shortly before the school was integrated where school faculty explained to the student body what was happening.

Terry Evans recalled that someone asked Coach Leonard Staggs of LCHS if he was going to allow black students to play football or basketball, to which Coach Staggs replied, “If they prove they can play, then they will play.”

Coach Staggs backed up his words with actions when Ernest Smith became the first African-American student to play sports for Lawrence County High School soon thereafter.

Kate Moore shared her memories that, despite opposition from a few parents at having an African-American teacher at Lawrenceburg Public School, second grade teacher Vera Davis “became a much-loved teacher at LPS, teaching second grade there for many years until her retirement.”

What are your memories of integration in Lawrence County?

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The Lost Village of Laurel Hill

For most of its six-mile path between the Natchez Trace and CC Road, Laurel Hill Road is a path through the wilderness. The property it traverses is heavily wooded and part of nearly 20 square miles of land owned there by the State of Tennessee.

But just downhill from Laurel Hill Cemetery, at the spot where the road takes a sharp turn and crosses Little Buffalo River, like the ruins of an ancient civilization reclaimed by nature, you can still see the remains of what was once a bustling little industrial village. Bricks piled here and there and the odd piece of metal protruding from the ground are all that remain of the Laurel Hill Cotton Mill.

Laurel Hill was once a village built on the Little Buffalo River. By the late 19th century, it is estimated that as many as 400 people lived there. Named for the abundant mountain laurel that grew in the area, by the late 19th century the town boasted a school, a post office, several sawmills, a spoke mill, a headen mill, a grist mill, and, of course, the massive cotton mill.

The cotton mill was a brick building, believed to have been built in the 1840s. A chancery sale for the property in 1869 described it as four stories, 80 by 40 feet, with 2,000 spindles, batting card, 56 looms, and “all machinery necessary for manufacturing four-quarter sheetings.” The property also included a six-room “cottage,” 1,800 acres and a tan yard with 60 vats.

During the Civil War, the mill is said to have produced material for Confederate uniforms until Federal occupation forced its closure. An 1875 blurb in the Pulaski ‘Citizen’ says that the mill produced “heavy sheeting, yarns, and bolting.”

In 1903, the owner decided to close the mill and open a new cotton mill in Arkansas, a situation which the Nashville ‘American’ described as “a great drawback to this community” and that it would throw “a great many out of employment.”

The paper was correct. When the mill whistle ceased, the village disappeared in short order. Today, all that remains of the bustling little town is a cemetery and a pile of bricks by the river. 

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Fields of Faith at Mt. Ararat

At about 945 feet above sea level, Mt. Ararat Cemetery on Mt. Ararat Road north of Lawrenceburg is not so much on a mountain as it is on a low hill. But voices raised in sacred song once rang out across this place, and the area has a heritage of faith as towering as its biblical namesake.

In 1839, a group of Cumberland Presbyterians established a campground across the road from the current site of the Mt. Ararat Cemetery, about three miles north of Lawrenceburg on the waters of Little Shoal Creek, for the purpose of holding old-fashioned tent revival services known as camp meetings. They named the campground Mt. Ararat, after the mountain where Noah’s Ark came to rest after the Flood in Genesis.

In an era when church buildings were still sparse, camp meetings gave hundreds or sometimes thousands of people the opportunity to hear extended sermons outdoors from itinerant preachers. Often occurring in the late summer, large brush arbors were erected to shade the congregants, and families would camp overnight in tents. These meetings usually lasted a period of three or four days.

Camp meetings were social events as well as times of religious rededication. Many people developed strong attachments to the camp grounds and the memories they made there.

On August 8, 1841, a primitive church building was raised at the Mt. Ararat campground. One of the largest gatherings recorded there was the 1847 funeral of Captain William B. Allen, who died in the Mexican War and to whose memory the Mexican War monument in Lawrenceburg is dedicated. More than 1,000 people attended his funeral.

The church grew to around 100 members until 1861, when the Civil War scattered its membership. By 1875, there were fewer than 15 members left and the original building “rotted and fell to the ground.” Despite the construction of a second church at the site in 1891, no building exists there today.

Across Mt. Ararat Road from the site of the church, however, the place’s sacred nature endures in a quiet burial ground where many of the campground’s original campers are forever laid to rest. The first burial there was in 1840, and today there are more than 370 marked burials in the place.

Lithograph, “Camp Meeting”. DL*60.2964. Peters Prints Collection.
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The Pension of James S. Finley

How many people do you think you could get to verify that you are a good person?

One Lawrence County man got the signatures of 190 people!

The reason? Civil War veteran drama.

In the spring of 1906, 78-year-old James S. Finley of Lawrenceburg applied for a pension from the State of Tennessee for his service in the Confederate army. In 1861, Finley enlisted in Company A of the 32nd Tennessee Infantry. He was a Methodist pastor in civilian life, and on October 28, 1861, he was elected chaplain of his regiment.

After the fall of Fort Donelson and the capture of a large portion of the Army of Tennessee in February 1862, Finley claims that he was ordered to return home until further notice. He says that when the men of his regiment were exchanged in October 1862, he reported to the conscription officer, who promptly issued him a discharge due to his status as a minister. He says that for the duration of the war, he “lived a quiet and peaceable life,” minding his own business at his home in Marshall County.

Finley’s account and his extant service record satisfied the Tennessee Board of Pension Examiners, and he was allowed to draw his $5 per month–once. After one check, Finley’s pension stopped and he was given no reason why.

As it turned out, some local Confederate veterans were outraged that Finley’s name was added to the pension roll, and they wasted no time letting the state know. Finley found out about this when the Pension Board mistakenly sent him a letter that was probably intended for the governor. It said:

“As soon as his name appeared in the published list of new pensioners, we received protests from some of the leading citizens of Lawrence County…and from Marshall County where he lived during the war. It was charged that he saw little or no service in the army, that he left the army in 1862, and that thereafter he affiliated with the other side, acting as pilot and informer for the Federal troops in this section of the state.”

Finley’s neighbor, the schoolteacher and Union veteran J.J.W. Starr, wrote a flurry of letters to the governor and the Pension Board denying the charges and insisting that Finley be allowed a fair and impartial hearing regarding the case.

T.H. Meredith, a local Confederate veteran and court official, did not mince words in his angry letters to the Pension Board. He claimed that Finley helped the Union army during the war, that he began the first Northern Methodist church ever seen in the area, that he consistently voted the Republican ticket, and that he was “a low-down cuss, and he deserves a kick from all honest men.” Meredith had some harsh words for J.J.W. Starr, too, calling him “the most contemptible Yankee that ever struck our county,” and that he “meddles in a great many things that do not concern him.”

John B. Kennedy, another local Confederate veteran and court official, took aim at Finley’s personal life, claiming that Finley had been married three times; the first wife “he treated so shamefully and so brutally…that she finally went insane and died,” the second he divorced, and the third he ordered from a “matrimonial service.” Kennedy went on to say that Finley “is the worst old Philistine who has so far escaped the jawbone.”

In the autumn of 1909, a petition circulated requesting Finley’s reinstatement on the roll, stating that he was “a person of good moral character and worthy of belief.”

The petition, seen here, is impressive. It contains 190 names of men from a variety of walks of life. James D. Vaughan, the father of Southern Gospel music, signed it, as did the mayor, a doctor, a dentist, multiple pastors, several Civil War veterans of both sides, as well as butchers, merchants, painters, carpenters, harness makers, brakemen, newspaper editors, bakers, and the city marshal.

Finley died in 1911, but was never reinstated to the pension roll. He is buried in Mimosa Cemetery in Lawrenceburg, surrounded by both his detractors and most of the 190 men who signed their names to vouch for his character.

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St. Mary’s Cemetery: A National Register Property

While all of Lawrence County’s cemeteries are historic to some degree, only one cemetery in Lawrence County is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

St. Mary’s Cemetery, five miles east of St. Joseph, on Gieske Road is the only remnant of the abandoned German Catholic settlement of St. Mary’s. Established in 1872, the community of St. Mary’s had a log Catholic church and was home to a handful of German immigrants who came to Lawrence County as part of the German Catholic Migration of the 1870s.

The parish was eventually absorbed by St. Joseph and the log church is long gone, but the little cemetery at St. Mary’s remains, and it is still an active burial site. Buried there are members of the Gieske, Kerstiens, Henkel, Regensberg, and Bergob families, among others.

Some of the earliest stones, like this one marking the grave of Theresia Bergob, have German epitaphs. Although some parts of the stone have been worn almost illegible by more than a century of the elements, Theresia Bergob’s stone (as far as I can read it) says the following:

HIER RUHT
THERESIA BERGOB
GEB den 27 FEBR 1842
in Beisinghausen Gemeinde
Reiste Westfalen
GEST den 25 OCT 1908
Deuneliebe songinicht
mehrdein Erkaliendein
Erblassen schulg uns Wunder
lief und schuwer

The German epitaphs, combined with the cemetery’s association with the German Catholic migration, make the cedar-ringed burial ground unique enough to meet the rigorous criteria for inclusion on the National Register of Historic Places.

St. Mary’s Cemetery was listed on the National Register on October 10, 1984.

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The Promise to Colonel Dobbins

July 1884 was windy in Lawrence County. Brief, loud summer storms raked the fields, watering the earth but bending and damaging corn stalks throughout the area. And on the 30th, in the midst of that stormy summer, one of the most influential men in the community of Appleton breathed his last.

News of the passing reached Lawrenceburg by special messenger the next morning, and a local minister set out from his home on Pulaski Street to fulfill his last promise to an old friend.

Colonel Alexander G. Dobbins was 68 years old when he took his last breath. He died of cancer, no doubt surrounded by family in the midst of his massive and prosperous farm. He certainly had plenty of family left to carry on his name; his first two wives had given him five children each before dying, leaving his third and final wife–a woman eighteen years his junior–a number of stepsons to help maintain her estate.

An expert in livestock, Colonel Dobbins built a successful business empire despite his limited education. At the time of his death, he owned three mercantile houses and at least 4/5 of a square mile of land in Lawrence County’s third district. He was generous and well-liked, and very active in his masonic lodge.

Years before, Colonel Dobbins had asked his old friend W.T. Nixon to preach his funeral. And so it was, when word of the Colonel’s passing reached Lawrenceburg early the next morning, Nixon saddled his horse Old Nell and rode south to fulfill his promise.

About eight miles south of Lawrenceburg, Nixon and Old Nell were caught in a sudden violent storm and had to take shelter at the home of Rice Wilburn. When the storm let up, Wilburn joined him and they arrived at Colonel Dobbins’s home around 2:30 that afternoon.

Nixon kept his word to his old friend. He was sure to remark on the fact that Colonel Dobbins “had never taken a chew of tobacco, had never smoked a pipe, never drank a drink of whiskey and had never sworn an oath.” He was buried with full masonic honors after the sermon.

His vow completed, Nixon started back to Lawrenceburg at 5:30 and finally arrived home at 11:30 that night, the 18-mile journey taking him six hours over a very “rough road.”

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Lawrence County’s First Government

“A temporary government of our own…”

Did you know that, before the city of Lawrenceburg even existed, there was once an independent and unauthorized government in operation in the area that would become Lawrence County?

As can be seen in this clipping from the ‘Nashville Whig,’ published on July 14, 1817, the region west of Giles County and south of Maury and Hickman Counties was controlled in the spring and summer of 1817 by an entity known as the Shoal Creek Corporation.

This organization was an ad hoc local government.

The purpose of the ‘Whig’ ad was to let people know that the Shoal Creek Corporation was planning to seek recognition by the state as a new county. The Corporation was represented by three commissioners: Henson Day, Daniel Beeler, and David Crockett.

Beeler, for whom the Beeler Fork of Shoal Creek is named today, was a longtime resident of the area. He appears on a list of “Intruders on Shoal Creek” made by the U.S. Army in 1809 when soldiers were sent to force out whites squatting illegally on what was then Chickasaw land.

Crockett, however, was a newcomer. He came to the area not long after the U.S. government purchased what is today Lawrence County in the fall of 1816 for around two cents an acre. In fact, Crockett had probably been at Shoal Creek just a few months when the creation of the Shoal Creek Corporation changed his life forever.

Crockett explains the origins of this renegade government in his 1834 autobiography:

“And so I moved and settled myself down on the head of Shoal Creek. We remained here some two or three years, without any law at all; and so many bad characters began to flock in upon us, that we found it necessary to set up a sort of temporary government of our own…we met and made what we called a corporation…and appointed magistrates and constables to keep order. We didn’t fix any laws for [the magistrates and constables], tho’, for we supposed they would know law enough, whoever they might be; and so we left it to themselves to fix the laws. I was appointed one of the magistrates…”

Crockett’s memory failed him on one account. He had not been on Shoal Creek for “two or three years” when the Corporation was created. Indeed, he had probably only been there for a couple of months when he became one of the officials of the Shoal Creek Corporation.

From Crockett’s description, the Shoal Creek Corporation seems to have been a form of backwoods oligarchy, where magistrates and constables relied on their own innate sense of right and wrong to mete out justice.

Lawrence County was officially organized by the state government on October 21, 1817. According to Crockett, the state made most of the commissioners of the Shoal Creek Corporation official magistrates in the new county. This was the beginning of Crockett’s political career.

If his autobiography is to be believed, this was also the moment when Crockett was forced to perfect his own personal literacy. The Shoal Creek Corporation had no written warrants, but the State of Tennessee required its magistrates to keep written records of all their activities, a task which Crockett, who could barely write his own name, described as “at least a huckleberry over my persimmon.”

Assisted by his constable, Crockett quickly learned how to read and write much more than his name, and he soon found that he had a natural gift for politics, claiming that none of his judgments as magistrate were ever appealed.

The Shoal Creek Corporation existed very briefly–probably for a little less than a year–but it accomplished two important things: it helped settle the lawless territory that would become Lawrence County, and it launched the political career of David Crockett, a career which would eventually lead him to seek a fresh start in Texas and bring him to the Alamo.

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